Project 1

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Project 1: Brooch or Pendant

The first project will be either a brooch or a pendant with a pierced design. Look to botany for inspiration. This can be literal or more abstract as suits your design sensibilities. Think about not only images of plants, but macro and cellular imagery, also images such as graphics on tree coverage in cities, etc. Do 10-15 sketches of different designs. Design the outside shape of the piece as well as the interior pattern. Also consider what metal you would like to use.

We will be working with the sketches during class. Be prepared to Xerox!

For brooches: Think about what direction the piece will be oriented when worn. Mark “up” on your drawings.

For pendants: Think about how the pendant will hang on the chain. You will either need to have a metal tab to bend for the bail (what the cord is threaded through)

Tip:

Sketch life-size: the size you want your piece to be. If this is hard for you, make sure to either scan and enlarge your drawing, or Xerox to the appropriate size.

Sketches are due February 6. Final designs are due by end of class February 6.

Finished project is due beginning of class March 13.

Lesson 2: Drilling

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Lesson 2: Drilling: Drill Press and Flexshaft

The drill press can be used to drill holes in your metal so that you can pierce (saw) out designs that don’t connect to the edges of the metal.

ALWAYS wear eye protection when you are using the drill press.

Drill press tips:

• Start with a small hole.
• If you want a large hole, drill repeatedly with larger bits each time. If you try to make too big a hole too fast, the torque on the metal will tear it free from your grip and can cause a very nasty cut!
• Hold the metal firmly.
• Take it easy- bring the press down until you feel some resistance, then let up. Repeat until you are through the metal.
• The metal will heat up as you drill. By following the above step you can cut down on the heat build-up.
• After drilling you will likely have a metal lip around your hole on the backside. If you will not be piercing this out, file it off! It is very sharp.
• The metal will heat up as you drill. Using bur life and drilling slowly will ease this. If the metal gets too hot to touch, let it cool, and then resume drilling.

Flexshaft:

Flexshafts are used for many things in jewelry making. You can use them to drill holes that would be difficult to do with the drill press. Make sure to keep the handpiece perpendicular to your metal while drilling and always wear eye protection.

Lesson 1: Piercing and Filing

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Lesson 1: Piercing/ Filing

• Loosen the thumb screw on top and bottom of your saw frame.
• Place your blade in the bottom slot and tighten the screw.
• The teeth on the blade should face out and down

Hint: If you find the teeth hard to see, hold the blade over a white sheet of paper. This increases the contrast.

• The top of your blade should be barely hitting the top slot.
• Place your saw frame against the edge of your desk and push against it. You will feel the frame flex a little. Now the top of your blade should be in the top slot.
• Tighten the top screw then release pressure on the frame.
• Pluck the saw blade with your nail. You should hear a high pitched twang. If your saw is soprano, you have the proper tension on the blade. If the twang is low pitched, the saw blade is too loose- open the top screw and put more pressure on the frame before tightening the top screw again.

Hint: Use your hipbone to press against the frame. You can get great flexing this way and will wind up with a consistently taut blade.

• The saw cuts on the downward stroke
• Start by notching the metal where you want to start your cut. Take a couple of downward strokes holding the saw at a 45 degree angle.
• Once you have your notch, begin sawing.
• Hold the saw perpendicular to the metal- at a 90 degree angle. This may feel odd to begin with.
• Don’t push the blade; let the saw do the work.
• All the motion should be from your elbow.
• Keep the back end of the frame aligned with the direction you are sawing. Think of it as the rudder on a ship- where it points is where you’re heading! If you aren’t following your line, check to see where your saw is pointed.
• Don’t twist the saw frame while sawing. This is the fastest way to break a blade!

To turn a corner:

• Saw right up to the turn.
• Move your saw up and down in place- not going forward- and slowly rotate the metal.
• When the metal has been turned so that your saw is now lined up with the new direction. Begin sawing forward again.

Saw blade reminders:

• Saw blade sizes from smallest to largest:
• 6 5 4 3 2 1 0 1/0 2/0 3/0 4/0 5/0 6/0 7/0 8/0
• 1/0 is pronounced one-aught.
• Common blade sizes for metal gauges:
• 1/0: 18 ga.
• 2/0: 20-22 ga.
• 4/0: 22/24 ga.
• Copper is “gummy” when you saw it since it is such a soft metal. Use a blade a size smaller than recommended to reduce resistance.
• If you feel that the blade is getting stuck or is hard to get through the metal, put some
• Bur-life on the blade. Bur-life is a waxy substance that helps to slide the blade along.

Filing tips:

• The file will cut best moving forward. You can go back and forth to economize movement. Put most of your pressure into the forward stroke.
• Use the entire file with each stroke.
• Make sure to file large areas- this will help to smooth out the saw lines. If you file small areas, the piece looks uneven and has a faceted look.
• Make sure you are using the correct shape file! Rounded sides are for concave curves. Flat sides are for convex cures and flat areas. Choose the file that fits closest to the area you will be filing.
• Use your needle files for small areas.
• If you have sawed over your initial line marked on the metal, use your scribe to mark another line before filing. This way you have a goal to file to. It helps to prevent overfiling and maintains the proper shape of the piece.
• Files have different cuts. 0= coarsest 5= finest. The cut number can be found on the tang of hand files and on the handle of needle files.

Marking your Metal:

• There are several different ways to get your design onto your metal.
• The most direct way is to sketch on the metal with either your scribe or a sharpie. The scribe scratches the design into the surface of the metal, so be careful!
• You can attach your design on paper to the metal using either Spray-Mount (outside only!) or rubber cement.
• You can also use computer peel off labels. You can draw directly on the label or print them out. Full sheet labels can be put through the Xerox machines. (2^nd floor)
• One of my favorite ways is to draw with my sharpie and once I have the drawing just right go over the sharpie with the scribe. This lets me tweak the design on the metal itself, and give me a permanent line to saw to.

Supplies

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Introduction to Jewelry- Fall 2012

Materials Sheet

Supplies to purchase:

Basic Tool Kit

Sketch Book

Pencil

Extra fine point sharpie- black or dark color

Ruler with metric measurements! preferably metal

Scissors

Computer peel off label sheets

Masking tape

Scotchbrite pads

Towel

Tool box or Art Bin

Disposable dust masks

Safety glasses or goggles

Sandpaper (220, 320, 400, 600 grit)

Metals- copper, brass to work with

Hard, Medium, and Easy solder

Drill bits (1mm, also assorted .8-2mm)

Sawblades (1/0, 2/0, 4/0)

Metals:

Your tool kit includes 2 3”x3” squares of copper or brass. This should get you through your first project and the samples to that point. After that you will need to purchase metal for your projects. The amount is dependent on your designs.

Copper, brass and nickel sheet are available for purchase in the studio during class time. Sterling or gold sheet needs to be personally ordered by you.

Reference Text

The Complete Metalsmith - An Illustrated Handbook

Tim McCreight, Davis Publications, Inc. Worchester, Mass

Policies

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Studio and Class Policies:

• Always wear closed toed shoes in the studio. No sandals or Crocs! If you do not have closed toed shoes, you will not be allowed to work in the studio.
• Take any cell phone conversations into the hallway or outside.
• Please be respectful of other students working and keep conversations at a low volume.
• Please be respectful of other students, teachers, and tools.
• No eating at your desk and any beverages must have a lid.
• Clean up your area! Brush off and wipe down your desk. Empty you dust tray into the trash or scrap bin. Return all tools that you were using to their proper location.
• Use caution when working with the machines. Tie back long hair, and follow all safety procedures set out by your instructors/
• Listen to and respect the lab techs. They are not your teachers, so do not expect them to instruct you, but they are there for your safety and to help. If they ask you to observe a rule, do so. Your open studio time is a privilege and can be revoked.
• If you don’t know what something does, don’t turn it on or use it. Wait until you can speak with your instructor.
• If you have not been instructed in class as to the usage of a tool or machine, do not use it.
• Class time is for class projects. If you have finished all of your class work, then you can work on extra projects.
• Open studio time is for completion of class projects.
• Most of the tools are communal. Take turns, and be respectful that you are sharing.
• Open studio hours will be posted on the studio door. Changes to the hours (workshops, make-up sessions) will be posted weekly. Call the studio before coming in to make sure that the studio is open.
• You may not work during a regularly scheduled class that you are not enrolled in.
• If you will be absent, notify your instructor ASAP.
• You are responsible for the information in your syllabus and in the student policy handouts.

Syllabus and Schedule

JE 1200: Introduction to Jewelry I

Spring 3013

JE1200/ Section B

Wednesdays 9:45am- 1:00pm

Instructor: Jenn Parnell

Office Hours: Tuesdays 5:30-6pm, Wednesdays 1-1:30pm; by appointment

Phone: 512-589-6431 (cell)

Email: jenn_parnell@corcoran.edu

Homepage: http://ccadjewelry1.blogspot.com/

Required Text: none

Supplemental Text (not required): The Complete Metalsmith - An Illustrated Handbook

Tim McCreight, Davis Publications, Inc. Worchester, Mass

Course Description

This course will provide students with the basic skills needed to design and fabricate their own jewelry. Students will become familiar with the safety, use, and maintenance of studio equipment and hand tools. This course will cover piercing, filing, finishing, soldering, forming, and basic embellishment techniques as well as simple clasps. Designed for beginning students or those seeking to sharpen technical skills. Students must purchase a tool kit for this class. See the materials list for further information. It is highly recommended that CE students take this class for credit as it is a prerequisite for all subsequent credit-bearing jewelry courses.

Class Overview

This class is the basic stepping stone for students entering the Jewelry program. It is important that students receive a solid technical foundation upon which to build from this class. Jewelry has a wide variety of techniques and directions to explore, this class should get students thinking about their voice and how they can use materials to express that.

Course Objectives

At the end of this course students will:

1. Have an introductory understanding of jewelry fabrication and design skills.

2. Understand the basic safety protocols for working in the Corcoran Jewelry studio

3. Be able to demonstrate the following technical skills:

• Soldering- butt seams, wire to sheet, torch operation and studio safety
• Basic Hollow Construction
• Piercing, Drilling, Filing, and Sanding
• Polished, Heat patina, Liver of Sulfer, and Depletion Gilding finishes
• Roll Printed, Hammer and Stamp textures
• Dapping and use of the disc cutter
• Jump Rings
• Rivets
• S hook and hook and eye clasps
• Simple pin back

Course Expectations

Projects and Homework Assignments: You are expected to complete the class projects as well as the homework assignments on time. You are expected to keep a sketchbook for your designs and notes.

Technical Proficiency: I look for effort in completing assignments to the highest level of skill you can. I expect that as the course progresses that you will push your technical knowledge and continue to pursue perfection in the skills you learn.

Creativity: I expect that in your projects, you will express yourself as an artist and attempt to integrate your artistic vision and interests into each piece.

Attendance/Participation: Attendance is extremely important. You are expected to be on time. If you miss class, you are expected to talk with your classmates to get the notes for that day. You are expected to participate actively in class, ask questions, and comment in critiques.

Course Requirements (Assignments, Projects, Exams, etc.)

Students will create 3 completed projects: a pierced pendant or brooch, a hollow constructed ring, and a linked bracelet or necklace with clasp. In addition to the projects, students will also complete design homework, maquettes and samples of techniques.

Each project will be critiqued- the first 2 as a group, the last one individually as part of final critique which encompasses all work from the semester.

Grading Criteria

See the Corcoran Student Handbook for Undergraduate and Graduate Grade descriptions.

Grades are determined based upon the following:

1. Timely completion of all class projects with effort for creativity and technical skill.

2. Attendance and participation in class discussions and critiques

3. Timely completion of homework and samples/exercises.

Attendance Policy (see Student Handbook- http://www.corcoran.edu/student-handbook )

Students are expected to attend all class sessions and course-related activities for each course in which they register. Students may not attend any class for which they have not officially registered. Three absences (two during the summer term) within a given class, or 20 percent of the semester, are grounds for automatic failure of the course. In exceptional circumstances, the Director of Student Affairs, in coordination with Director of Continuing Education, may approve emergency absences for medical or other legitimate reasons. In such cases, students are required to provide medical or other supporting documentation. Absences due to religious holidays must be pre-approved by the instructor one week in advance of the absence.

Although students may miss up to two class sessions, they are not relieved of the obligation to fulfill all course assignments, including those that can only be fulfilled in class. Of special note to all students: instructors may modify the standard attendance policy (stated in this handbook) according to how they weigh various components of the curriculum throughout the semester. If there are any changes to the standard policy, they will be written into the course syllabi that are reviewed on the first day of classes.

Honor Code (see Student Handbook)

Faculty members are responsible, to the best of their ability, for maintaining the integrity of the learning and testing process, both in the classroom and outside of it, and for fostering conditions of academic integrity. To alleviate misunderstandings, all instructors are required to delineate at the beginning of each semester what constitutes a violation of the Honor Code in their classes. This should include an explanation of:

1. The extent to which collaboration or group participation is permissible in preparing term papers, studio work, reports of any kind, tests, quizzes, examinations, homework, or any other work.
2. The extent to which the use of study aids, memorandum, books, data, or other information is permissible to fulfill course requirements.
3. Guidelines on what constitutes plagiarism, including requirements for citing sources.

Course Outline

Week 1- January 30

• Introductions
• Studio Tour- introduction to the equipment, basic safety for the machinery, shop protocol
• Open up tool kits and go over tool usage as well as maintenance for hand tools
• Lesson 1: Piercing/ Filing

• Lesson 2: Drilling- Press and Flexshaft
• Introduce and Discuss Project 1: Brooch or Pendant
• Homework: Piercing and Filing exercises, design homework for Project 1

Week 2- February 6

• Designs for Project 1
• Lesson 3: Sanding and Polishing
• Work on Project 1

Week 3- February 13

• Lesson 4: Soldering

• Lesson 5: Simple Pin Stem
• Work on Project 1
• Homework: Soldering samples, sample pin stem

Week 4- February 27

• Lesson 6: Forming with mandrels

• Lesson 7: Hollow Construction

• Introduce and discuss Project 2: Hollow Constructed Ring
• Homework: Designs and maquettes for Project 2

Week 5- March 6

• Lesson 8: Scoring and Bending
• Discuss cords and chains for project 1

• Discuss designs for project 2
• Make final maquette for Project 2
• Homework: Scoring and bending sample

Week 6- March 13

• Project 1 due
• Lesson 9: Textures
• Work on Project 2
• Homework: Texture samples

Week 7- March 27

• Work on Project 2

Week 8- April 3

• Work on Project 2
• Lesson 10: Patinas
• Homework: Patina Samples

Week 9- April 10

• Work on Project 2
• Introduce and discuss project 3:  Linked bracelet or necklace
• Lesson 11: Rivets
• Homework: Riveting samples, design exercise for Project 3

Week 10- April 17

• Discuss designs for Project 3
• Lesson 12: Dapping
• Work on Project 2
• Homework: Dapping sample

Week 11- April 24

• Lesson 13: Jump Rings
• Work on Project 2
• Work on Project 3

Week 12- May 1

• Project 2 due
• Lesson 14: Clasps
• Work on Project 3
• Homework: Clasp sample if not included in Project 3

Week 13- May 8

• Work on Project 3

Week 14- May 15

• Project 3 due
• Final Critiques