Lesson 10: Patinas

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Lesson 10: Patinas

Patinas use chemical properties to color the surface of the metal. A wide variety of patinas are available, we are going to be going over some of the most common here. Because of the different metals, patinas work different on each one. Some of the patinas only work on certain metals.

Patination is the last step (or really close to it) in the creation of a piece. The only thing to do after patination would be to polish the edges of a piece, or glue in pearls.

Heat will destroy most patinas, so make sure that all of your soldering is complete. Also patinas are just on the surface of the metal, so sanding will remove them.

For all patinas, make sure that your piece is clean- Wash with soap and water.

Patinas are kept in the blue Chemicals cabinet.

Always use under ventilation and with latex gloves and face mask on.

Liver of Sulfer:

• Useable on silver, copper.
• On copper- turns the metal a deep grey-black
• On silver – produces colors from golden yellow through blue and purple into grey-black.
• Time: 1-5 minutes
• The most common patina used on silver.
• Take a small chunk of liver of sulfer and place in a cup.
• Add water to dissolve the liver of sulfer.
• This patina smells like rotten eggs. Definitely use ventilation!
• For a strong mix use a small amount of hot water.
• For a weak mix use a larger amount of cold water.
• Weak mixtures produce more colors; strong mixtures go directly to grey-black.
• You can either paint on the liquid with a q-tip or immerse the piece in the liquid.
• After desired color is achieved, rinse off piece with water and pat dry.
• Rubber cement can be used as a resist for this patina.
• Liver of sulfer is a thinner patina and textures will show.
• Liver of sulfer needs to be sealed if it will be coming into contact with surfaces or skin, if it is on the interior of a piece it does not need to be sealed.

White Patina- Depletion Gilding :

Also called Raising the Fine Silver (or Gold), is used to cover firescale in silver pieces.

Depletion gilding should be one of the very last steps that you do to your piece. You may buff with rouge after depletion gilding, but if you sand too much, you will go right through the layer of fine silver you have created.

After soldering, sanding, and finishing your piece, if you see a purplish stain on the surface of your silver, you have firescale. Most pieces will have this to a greater or lesser extent.

• Works on sterling silver, gold
• Time 5 min- 1hr.
• After completing work on your piece, heat to annealing temperature.
• Quench and pickle.
• Repeat heating, quenching, and pickling as needed.
• Do not brass brush.
• The surface of the silver will turn a matte white in the pickle.
• This is a very attractive patina, especially coupled with polished accents.
• This patina is a thin patina and textures will show.
• This patina needs to be sealed if coming into contact with skin or surfaces as it is easily scratched off.

Heat Patina:

• Works on copper, nickel silver.
• Time 1-5 min.
• On copper- colors range from orange to red, blue through purple.
• On nickel- grey-black
• Using a very soft flame, gently heat the surface of the metal.
• As the metal heats the color will change.
• After every pass over the metal, allow the color time to develop.
• This can also be done in a toaster oven for more exact results.
• Do not quench the piece!
• Allow to air-cool, then seal.
• This is a very thin patina and texture and finishes will show.
• This patina needs to be sealed to prevent color from darkening with age.

Sealing your patina:

As patinas are surface treatments, they can and will wear off without some care.

You can seal your patina with wax, lacquer or krylon.

Wax:

Is the softest sealant and the most commonly used, as it has a satin surface. Rub a small amount of wax onto the patina with a paper towel. Wait 5 minutes and buff away and excess. Needs to be reapplied every so often.

Lacquer:

Is the hardest and most permanent sealant. The lacquer must be used under ventilation. Produces a hard shiny surface over your patina. Paint onto the patina and let dry. The lacquer is a stepped up version of clear nail polish.

Krylon:

Krylon makes a clear coat spray paint in matte, satin, and glossy. This can be applied to the entire piece to seal the patina. Use outside with a face mask! Spray on and let dry.